Discover the thousand-year history of Sant’Apollinare in Coscogno — a Romanesque gem rich in symbolism, nestled in the heart of the Apennines.
Ancient Origins and Historical Significance
Not far from the village of Coscogno, of Roman origin, stands the ancient Romanesque parish church dedicated to Sant’Apollinare, the martyred bishop of Ravenna. Its origins may date back to the Byzantine rule in the Apennines (7th–8th century), as suggested by its dedication and its strategic position along an ancient route leading to Tuscany. The first documented mention of the church dates to 996, while its role as a parish church was first recorded in 1035.
In 1104, Countess Matilda of Canossa stayed in Coscogno and signed a legal document here in the presence of Cardinal Bernard, further confirming the church’s importance in medieval times. By the end of the 13th century, the parish church of Sant’Apollinare oversaw several chapels in the area, including those in San Dalmazio, Festà, Montebonello, Benedello, and Chiagnano.
Renovations and Architectural Evolution
The church’s current appearance is the result of significant renovations, particularly one carried out in 1648, as indicated by a plaque embedded high on the façade. During this intervention, the original gabled Romanesque façade was extended with two side wings, a triple-arched window was added above the portal, and both the choir and lateral chapels were built.
Over time, the church has undergone various restoration efforts due to the instability of the land it was built on, which has necessitated reconstruction and consolidation at several points in history.
The Romanesque Portal and Sculpted Lunette
The most distinctive feature of the façade is the Romanesque portal, composed of three distinct parts. The outermost portal, in late Romanesque style, features recessed arches with small columns, pilasters, and decorative motifs of foliage and lilies. The second portal, added in the 14th century for structural reinforcement, includes convex corbels.
Above the portal is a sculpted stone lunette, dating from the 11th–12th century and rediscovered in 1920 beneath 17th-century plaster. The bas-relief depicts two goats and two monstrous creatures representing evil, flanking a stylized palm tree at the center — a Christian symbol of resurrection and Christ’s redemptive power. The iconography echoes Burgundian influences, likely brought here by pilgrims traveling the road to Rome. At one time, the lunette was also painted with an image of Sant’Apollinare, now lost.
Other Decorative Elements
On the façade, an angular stone features a more recent (20th-century) bas-relief showing two beasts being bitten by a third, carved in deliberate imitation of the Romanesque style. Next to it is the inscription sicut olim et nunc (“as in the past and now”), and just above, a small carved human head — believed by some to be a self-portrait of the sculptor.
The Church Interior
The interior reflects the 17th-century renovations, with the addition of the choir and side chapels.
A Place of Faith and Memory
Though its prominence declined after the 12th century, the parish church of Sant’Apollinare still preserves its ancient charm — a silent witness to centuries of devotion, art, and pilgrimage. Nestled in the hills of the Modenese Apennines, it remains a place of discovery for those seeking to connect with the spiritual and cultural heritage of the region.
